By Alan on Mar 03 in Blog tagged berry canes, Dennis Adamson, density, grape vines, loppers, master gardner, problems, pruning cuts, pruning.fruit, saws, shape, tools, trees | 1 Comment

Usually I put a gardening related scripture at the end of my article.  Last week I was reading in the book of St. John in the New Testament and thought that this was a perfect way to introduce pruning.

“I am the true vine, and my Father is the husbandman.  2  Every branch in me that beareth not fruit he taketh away: and every branch that beareth fruit, he purgeth it, that it may bring forth more fruit.”  John 15:1-2

Obviously the Savior was familiar with the need for pruning to remove the dead and diseased branches (those that beareth no fruit he taketh away) and the necessity of pruning to revitalize the bearing branches to ‘bring forth more fruit’.  If we don’t do proper pruning then the production of our fruit bearing trees, vines and canes will diminish.

 

Larry Sagers, the horticultural specialist for the Utah State University Extension Service at Thanksgiving Point in Lehi, Utah, on February 21, 2011 wrote an article on pruning in the Deseret News.  He said that his definition of pruning is, “The removal of selected plant parts to produce a desired growth response.” He added that, the most desired growth response in this case is “making your fruit trees produce better and more fruit.” Larry then gave 4 major reasons for pruning your trees.

Major reasons for pruning fruit trees

1.   Improve the tree strength so it will carry a load of fruit or withstand wind and other  weather conditions.

2.   Facilitate cultural and harvesting operations. such as spraying.

3.   Adjust or partially control size and shape of trees.  For most of us it is desirable to  keep the trees small so that we will need no more than a small step ladder to prune and harvest our fruit from.

4.  To let light into the interior of the tree. Without light, the tree produces small, poorly  colored fruit.

A complete discussion of pruning fruit trees, vines and canes is well beyond the scope of this article.  There are several generalized guidelines that I will discuss found in the Utah Master Gardener Manual.  I will also give some resources for finding specific articles or videos on pruning each specific species at the end of the article.

General Pruning Guidelines

1.   When to prune: late winter to early spring.  Generally anytime between late February to early April.  Don’t prune in the fall since the tree may not harden off the woody tissue and may not withstand the cold.  You can summer prune apples in late July to early August to increase the light reaching the fruit.

2.  Remove problems: diseased, broken or damage limbs, crossing, rubbing or those branches with a narrow angle from the main scaffold.  (The ideal angle is 30-45 degrees above horizontal.  Narrow ‘V’-shaped branches won’t support the wight of the fruit.)  Old branches with complex spurs are removed to allow younger branches to form.

3.  Tree shape: Branches that are too upright will remain vegetative and won’t produce fruit.  If you are trying to decrease the size of a larger tree don’t remove more than 1/3 of the the tree in any one year.  If you do it all at once the tree will respond by sending up numerous vertical branches called watersprouts.  Branches that are horizontal or those below horizontal (pendant) are typically too weak or too shaded to be very productive.

4.  Branch density: Will light penetrate for good fruit production?  You should be able to see through the tree when the leaves are off in the winter.  Don’t just look side to side, but upward through the canopy.

Types of Pruning Cuts:

1.  Heading Cut: removing part of a branch, but not all of the branch.

2.  Thinning Cut: completely removing a branch to its point of origin.

3.  Stubbing Cut: this is a heading cut in 2 year or older wood.

4.  Bench Cut: removing a vigorous vertical branch back to a horizontal side branch.    This may cause a proliferation of watersprouts.

5.  Dutch Cut: removing a damaged or broken branch, but leaving a stub in an attempt to get  a new branch to grow from the stub.

 

How and where to make your pruning cuts

 

Steve Nix from About.com gives the following guideline and illustration on pruning cuts.

“Make pruning cuts just outside the branch collar and nearly, but not completely, flush to the trunk. This pruning technique provides viable growing branch bark that will improve wound closure.”

Most of us won’t be involved with pruning the large top of a tree as demonstrated in the 2nd panel in the illustration from Steve Nix’s article.  The principle is the same as the one illustrated in the right hand side of the 3rd panel where you are cutting a larger branch.  The reason for the 1st cut at the bottom of the limb is to keep the bark from peeling back to the main trunk when the 2nd cut is made and the branch comes down.  Once the large branch is removed, the final cut can then easily be made in the proper place.

Tools for Pruning Marie Iannotti in About.com has the following great hints:

1.   Hand shear: Carbon Steel Blades – Sharpens easily and holds its edge longer than less  expensive blades. Replaceable Parts – Being able to replace blades, springs and even handle covers, will keep your pruners functioning longer. Pruners that are assembled with nuts and bolts, usually have replaceable parts.   There are 2 main types: By-pass pruners – One blade that is sharpened on only one side swings by (or by-passes) a a curved but flat surface that cuts the branch being pruned and slices it. It doesn’t crush the branch being pruned.  Anvil pruners – One blade that is sharp on both sides and comes straight down on a flat surface, slicing the branch being pruned.  Other things that she recommends looking at is size and comfort, locks to keep them closed when not in use, ease of use (some have ratchet actions that do most of the work, a sharpening tool that makes it easier to sharpen these tools, and a belt holder.  It is always recommended that you get the best pair that you can afford.  The old saying, “You get what you pay for” holds true.

2.   Loppers: These are a must when you have branches larger than 2”.  If you find you need two hands to make a cut with your hand pruners, it’s time to switch to a lopper. They are essentially hand pruners with long handles. The handles on loppers give you leverage so you can prune the larger branches.  They also give you a longer reach.  The same recommendations listed for pruners applies to loppers.

3.  Tree saws: Marie has the following guidelines for these.  If it’s too big for a lopper, you need a saw.  In a pinch, you can pull out any old saw and use it as a pruning saw. But actual pruning saws are designed with sticky, gummy plants in mind. A good pruning saw won’t gum up and bind when you use it to prune live wood.

• Tree Saws - The traditional tree pruning saw (sometimes called and orchard saw), has either a straight or curved 12 -16 inch blade and a pistol style handle. The teeth cut much more easily on the pull back stroke and slides on the push stroke.
• Tri-Cut Blades - Tri-cut blades have teeth that are sharpened on three sides, like a triangle, rather than traditional blades that are sharp only on two. They cut faster and easier. They also stay sharper longer.  It’s worth it to have a professional to sharpen your saw blade.
• Folding Saws - Usually any light pruning that can’t be done with a lopper, can be handled by a folding saw. The beauty of a folding saw is it’s portability. You can stick one in your garden bag or even your pocket. It’s always handy. And they are quite strong.

• Pole & Rope Saws & pruners- Pole saws and pruners are used for cutting high limbs. They are nice to have on hand for occasional use.

Look for replaceable blades and comfortable handles on all saws that you purchase.

Care of pruning tools: Be sure to use pruning tools only for pruning.  If you are pruning diseased parts of plants then you need to sterilize them between cuts with a solution of 10% bleach solution for 10 seconds.  Lysol wipes have also been used for this purpose.  Clean tools before storage and place a light oil on the blades to minimize corrosion.  Sharpen frequently to make it easier to do your cuts.

One of the best sources for pruning of fruit is from the Utah State University Extension Service. They have a booklet that can be downloaded at:

http://extension.usu.edu/htm/publications/publication=6290

This covers most types of fruit trees, grapes, and many types of raspberries, blackberries, currants and gooseberries.  It also includes a section on pruning walnut and pecan trees.

Multiple other sources can be found on the Internet.  If you use Google you can also click on videos on the top bar when you do a search and you can view numerous videos on any fruit variety that you would want to prune.  There are also books available specifically on pruning.  Also check with your local Extension Services for classes and demonstrations.

Next Week: ‘Superman’s kryptonite fuses bones?’
What does this have to do with plants?

Dennis Adamson
adamsond@juno.com  (Contact me if you have further questions)
For The Family

By Alan on Jan 28 in Blog tagged at home, Bush, containers, dennis, dwarf, espalier, fruit, garden plot, gardening, in small places, intercroping, mobile, ornamental, Relay, seeds, square foot, Succession, trees, vertical | 1 Comment

When I was growing up in small town Utah in the late 40′s through the 60s, most families had large lots. My parents and grandparents had large gardens that I was often tasked with weeding.  It wasn’t a problem growing crops that needed a lot of space.  Corn, summer and winter squash, pumpkins and melons need quite a bit of space when grown horizontally.  Most, with the exception of corn, can be grown vertically.

Now a large lot is usually 1/2 acre which includes the space taken up by the home, driveways, walks, etc.  Most of us live on lots that are 1/3 acre or smaller.  In the case of an apartment there is usually no green space at all.  We are seeing more neighborhood or community garden plots.

When we lived in Germany we noticed that they had taken this to an art form with gartenplatz (garden plots) where most are rented.  They are even covered by their federal laws.

The [German] Federal Garden Plot Law. From Section 3:

(1) A garden plot should not be larger than 400 square meters [4300 square feet]. During use and cultivation of the garden plot, all requirements relating to protection of the environment, the local habitat, and the landscape shall be taken into account.

(2) In the garden plot, it is permitted to construct a simply-furnished small house with a maximum of 24 square meters [258 square feet] of floor space, including any covered outdoor seating area. Sections 29 to 36 of the Building Code apply accordingly. The house’s overall design, and especially its furnishings and equipment, may not be suited to long-term residence.

The result are thousands of garden colonies on the outskirts of big cities in Germany, Austria and Switzerland that look more like miniature housing developments than peaceful nature retreats. In the summertime, they are packed with families enjoying the sunshine, crammed onto their tiny plots grilling, eating and relaxing.

Since most of us want to stay at home to do our gardening, I will talk about several ways that we can do this.  One of the first things that I would have you do is look for a location that has adequate sunlight and preferably near a source of water.  Look on the Internet for ideas and then plan out your garden space.  Here are some ideas to think about:

 

1. Square foot gardening: I have used this technique for years.  It is surprising how much you can grow in one square foot areas.  This trademarked technique was developed by Mel Bartholomew in 1975 after he retired from his consulting engineering business in New Jersey. Classes are often given in several parts of the country.  Your extension service may do classes on home vegetable production in small spaces.  Thanksgiving Point at Lehi, UT will be offering a 3 week Home Vegetable Production class in March that will include gardening in small space given by Larry Sagers the USU Horticultural Specialist at Thanksgiving Point.

.

.

.

2. Vertical gardening: This can be incorporated into your horizontal gardens.  It is a great way to maximize your space as well as minimize rot, mold and some insects with your

plants being off the ground.  I use steel electrical conduit for the frame.  There are right angle connectors that allow you to make a 3 sided rigid frame from items easily purchased at any local hardware store.  Nylon netting is then stretched across the conduit and secured with plastic tie-downs. This can then be secured to your boxes, if you use raised beds, or by hammering rebar (also found at hardware stores: many of them sell precut short pieces) into the ground and then sliding the open end of the 2 vertical supports over these.  There are many vegetable that can be grown vertically. Peas, pole beans, summer and winter squash, tomatoes, watermelons, cantaloupe, cucumbers, pumpkins, etc.  I have used this technique for several years.  Some of these will need additional support once the fruit develops, such as cantaloupe.  Trellises are another vertical technique. They have been used for centuries for grapes.  Winter squash and cucumbers, gourds, melons, berries and even pumpkins can also be adapted to trellises.  I have used a trellis for some of my grapes vines for years and last year I made one for my winter squash.  I am going to change it this year so that it is anchored on the far sides of my raised beds instead of the inside.  This made it easier to get to the plants in the raised beds.

 

3. Place vegetable among your ornamental plants. I have done this with peppers.  There are now ornamental peppers that are edible.  Herbs also work well in this setting.  I have chives in my flower beds.

4. Containers: Any container: from glass jars, fabric grow bags, upside down bags, old nursery black plastic plant containers to the fanciest of pots can be used for growing vegetables.  Some have water reservoirs in the bottom to minimize the watering requirements.  I have my dwarf orange and lemon trees in 2 of these.  There are specific ones for strawberries.  This technique can be used in the house, on the deck or on the side of the house.  There are now specific tomato varieties for the upside down containers.

5. Intercropping: Planting crops that mature early with crops that mature later in the year.

6. Relay Planting: Planting some plants one week and then planting the same variety a week or  two later in different spots so that the production time will be prolonged.

7. Succession Planting: Once a crop, such as radishes are finished producing, planting another crop that does well in the hotter months.

8. Plant dwarf or bush varieties of vegetables and fruit trees. I use this technique grow my fruit trees closer together.

9. Espalier (i-spal-yey or -yer): This is for growing vines or trees in a 2 dimensional plane.  Grape vines have been trained this way for millennium.  Many fruit trees can also be trained to grow in this way.  Apple, apricot, nectarine, peach and plum are among the fruit trees that you can espalier.  This was used by George Washington at Mount Vernon and in gardens in Colonial Williamsburg.  I have done this with 2 plum trees and plan to do it with some apples varieties.  I use the dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties, but it can be done with standard sizes.

 

10. Mobile Garden: When you think that you have seen it all, you haven’t !!!

.

“Though thy beginning was small, yet thy latter end [garden produce] should greatly increase.” Job 8:7

“…but behold I say unto you, that by small and simple things are great things brought to pass… “ Alma 37:6

Next week article: “Seeds”

Dennis Adamson
For The Family
adamsondm@thefamily.com  (Any Questions?)