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By Alan on Jun 05 in Blog tagged bleach solution, cotyledons, Dennis Adamson, Dr. Larry A. Ruff, grafting, grafting clips, grafting tomatoes, healing chamber, Lehi, Master Gardener, moisture probe, razor blades, rootstock plant, scion, seeds, sterile water, temperature, Thanksgiving Point Gardens, transplant, Utah | Comments Off
I am going to delay the overall propagation article until the next week. In last week’s article I talked about Dr. Larry A. Ruff’s description of grafting heirloom tomatoes onto more vigorous, disease-resistant tomato rootstalk. This was part of one of our Advanced Master Gardener lectures at Thanksgiving Point Gardens Lehi, UT.
They recommend starting the seeds for grafted tomatoes 6-8 weeks before transplant. If one is faster growing than the other then start the slower growing ones a day or two before the faster growing ones so that the stalks will be nearly the same diameter at grafting. (Later, in the article, will be a description of a way to get around this.) Also, grafted tomatoes stop growing during the healing process so they will take one to two weeks longer to get to the transplant stage. They also recommended over-seeding by 25% so that you will have plenty of plants to attempt the grafting.
Be as sterile as possible in the grafting process. They recommend washing the work area with a bleach solution. Thoroughly clean your hands or use surgical type gloves and don’t smoke in the grafting area. It is best to do it indoors where there is a constant temperature, out of the sunlight and with no fan or draft present. Always use new razor blades and clips. You can even heat sterilize the blade by holding it over an open flame.
The following site is the source of most of the information in their article and also has step-by-step photos of the process.
Alma 16: 17 … “but that they might receive the word with joy, and as a branch be grafted into the true vine, that they might enter into the rest of the Lord their God.”