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By Alan on Jun 05 in Blog tagged bleach solution, cotyledons, Dennis Adamson, Dr. Larry A. Ruff, grafting, grafting clips, grafting tomatoes, healing chamber, Lehi, Master Gardener, moisture probe, razor blades, rootstock plant, scion, seeds, sterile water, temperature, Thanksgiving Point Gardens, transplant, Utah | Comments Off
I am going to delay the overall propagation article until the next week. In last week’s article I talked about Dr. Larry A. Ruff’s description of grafting heirloom tomatoes onto more vigorous, disease-resistant tomato rootstalk. This was part of one of our Advanced Master Gardener lectures at Thanksgiving Point Gardens Lehi, UT.
They recommend starting the seeds for grafted tomatoes 6-8 weeks before transplant. If one is faster growing than the other then start the slower growing ones a day or two before the faster growing ones so that the stalks will be nearly the same diameter at grafting. (Later, in the article, will be a description of a way to get around this.) Also, grafted tomatoes stop growing during the healing process so they will take one to two weeks longer to get to the transplant stage. They also recommended over-seeding by 25% so that you will have plenty of plants to attempt the grafting.
Be as sterile as possible in the grafting process. They recommend washing the work area with a bleach solution. Thoroughly clean your hands or use surgical type gloves and don’t smoke in the grafting area. It is best to do it indoors where there is a constant temperature, out of the sunlight and with no fan or draft present. Always use new razor blades and clips. You can even heat sterilize the blade by holding it over an open flame.
The following site is the source of most of the information in their article and also has step-by-step photos of the process.
Alma 16: 17 … “but that they might receive the word with joy, and as a branch be grafted into the true vine, that they might enter into the rest of the Lord their God.”
By Alan on Mar 14 in Blog tagged asexual propagation, automatically watered, bicycle riders, controlled by computers, cuttings, Dennis Adamson, Dr. Larry Rupp, fertilized, from Central and South America, greenhouses, introduction to propagation, large stores, Larry Sagers, machineputting plant plugs in pots, Master Gardener, master gardening, micropropagation, orticulturalist Specialists, patenting a plant, propagation, seeds, sexual method, The Family, trademarks | Comments Off
To those who are reading The Book of Mormon or are studying some of the things that I have said, or something that is new to you, if you apply the principle of the seed and the tree, I know that the truth and the good fruit will be made known to you and if it is bad then it will be known, also.
Remember that if you do not nurish the soil of the tree, or read and keep studying and searching, then the tree or truth, will wither and die. Just like a tree, you can not know of it’s truthfulness if you don’t nurish the thought.
May you search with your heart and confirm in your mind all truths that the Lord is leading you and showing you The Way!
For The Family
I have put the final touches on my raised beds. This started a couple of weeks ago as I was preparing for a class that I taught on cold frames and other season extending techniques. Last year I had problems with leaf miners in my beets. This year I am trying low tunnels, sometimes called hoop frames, to keep the leaf miners off of the plants.
For the class I purchased some inexpensive salad greens from a few of the big box stores. These were all cool season crops. I then planted them in one of my raised beds and took pictures of them in the low tunnel. They survived a few nights of freezing temperatures, one night down to 23 degrees, without any problems. I harvested the first crops from these today. The seeds I planted in another raised bed at the same time are now coming up. Does this mean that if you haven’t started your garden by now you are too late. Not at all. With all of these plants I plant in 2-4 week intervals so that new plants will be coming up at later times to extend the season of these plants.
I then started more seeds this week in preparation for this article. When my wife buys eggs I have her get them in the pressed paper cartons.
When she has used all of the eggs I save the bottom to plant seeds in. I then purchased giant lasagna pans with clear lids in the 2 pack for $1.85. These become the mini-greenhouses for the egg cartons once the seeds are planted and then watered. I find using a water bottle with spray nozzle does the best job. I watch the sides of the egg carton and when about 1/2 is showing moisture I place it in the pan. These can be placed in a warm sunny spot. The clear lids keep the moisture and heat in and lets the sun get onto the growing plants.
Once the plants have sprouted they can be transferred to larger pots or into the garden if they are cool season plants. You will probably want to gently remove the bottom of each egg cell to allow the roots to grow into the soil. I found them coiling around the bottom of the cell last year. Also make sure that the top of each egg cell is below the surface of the soil that you transplant it into so as to not to have the moisture wick out of each cell into the atmosphere and dry the roots out. The same goes for coir and peat pots and other fiber or paper seed starting containers.
For those who want to get even fancier, build a frame for grow lights that can be raised as the plants get taller. I made mine out of PVC pipe. I then attached chains to both ends of the grow lights and made them so they can be lowered or raised as needed.
It was placed over a 20” X 20” heat accelerator mat. This warms whatever type of potting container and the soil that is place on it. It will raise the rooting area temperatures 10-20 degrees above the ambient room temperature.
These should only be used indoors. This size allowed me to place 3 – 16 container biodegradable ‘greenhouse’ kits with a tray and clear cover dome on the mat.
The individual pots are made from coir.
We talked about coir in an earlier article. I have found additional material on it and the peat that it replaces. Coir is the outer husk of the coconut. A healthy coconut palm can produce 50-100 coconuts per year. On the other hand it takes about 220 years to replace the peat removed from the land each year. Harvesting peat releases carbon dioxide.
Peat bogs acts as a filter to remove harmful impurities from water. They hold approximately 10% of the worlds fresh water. Parts of Europe has mandated that peat not be used in growing medium after 2010.
I am using this system for my warm season plants that I will transplant after the last frost. These include varieties of sweet and hot peppers, many varieties of winter squash and summer squash and melons.
Do you have limited space? This is where container gardening can work quite well. Containers come in various sizes and shapes from the very cheap to the very expensive. They can be jars, pots, planters and any other container that you can dream up. If you are using older pots, you need to thoroughly clean them out and then cleanse them with a mild bleach to prevent any diseases from old plants being transferred to the new ones. If they are porous terra cotta pots, you might want to seal them with a latex coat on the inner surface. Directions for doing these steps can be found at:
Self watering pots come in handy so you don’t have to water them by hand every day or two. There are kits that can convert pots that you already have or there are ways to turn a pot into a self watering one. The following site is an example.
All the containers that aren’t self watering should be able to drain. This might require you to make a drain hole in the bottom. Place a small irregular rock or broken pottery from a clay pot over the hole so the soil doesn’t plug it up or come out. I usually place a planter saucer under the pot to catch excess water.
If the containers are going to be on wood or deck material they should have feet to raise them up so any excess water can dry up rapidly.
If you don’t already have containers it is usually best to look for ones that will fit the style of the area where you are placing it. Any size opening can work, but look for containers at least 12 inches wide so more than one plant can be placed. Vegetables usually need at least 8 inches of soil depth. If you’re placing pots on a deck or a rooftop, look for lightweight materials. These and some glazed ceramic pots also have the advantage of being nonporous, so they keep soil moister. Terra-cotta allows soil to dry out more quickly.
Decide on which vegetables you are going to grow in your containers. Herbs and flowers will look good among the vegetables. Nasturtium is a flower with petals and leaves that can be eaten in garden salads.
Since ordinary garden soil is too heavy and can introduce disease, be sure to use a bagged planting mix or a homemade equivalent. Products labeled “potting soil” contain sterilized soil and other ingredients, while “soil-less mixes” consist mostly of peat moss or peat substitutes, compost, and perlite or vermiculite to keep it loose. Soil-less mixes weigh less but dry out faster, but some plants, such as succulents, prefer them. Use the compost, coir or peat moss and vermiculite or perlite combinations that I discussed in an earlier article.
If you are growing shallow-rooted specimens in tall pots, you might want to fill in the bottom half with lightweight materials such as Styrofoam blocks or packing peanuts. Old milk jugs or juice bottles can also be used. This promotes drainage and prevents waterlogged soil. If you are going to be using packing peanuts it is best to place them in plastic grocery bags and then tie the handles together. This way if you need to remove the soil at the end of the planting season the packing peanuts won’t have a chance to spill out and blow all over the yard and the neighborhood.
Start planting in the center or with the largest specimen and work outward, filling the soil to the same level the plants had in the original container. This should be 1 to 2 inches below the lip of the pot.
Water the plants using a watering can or a soft-spray nozzle on a hose. The soil will probably settle so add more if necessary. Keep watering whenever the soil is dry 2 to 3 inches below the surface. I prefer to use a moisture meter to determine when I need to water again.
Fertilize regularly, unless you used time-release beads, according to the package directions.
The following are some example of container vegetable gardening. I particularly like the portable car top model. This way if you have excess produce you can drive to the farmer’s market and sell directly from you garden plot.
Don’t think that by just doing container gardening that you aren’t accomplishing much. Everyone has to start somewhere.
.h is great.” Do
.“Wherefore, be not weary in well-doing, for ye are laying the foundation of a great work. And out of
By Dennis Adamson on Feb 12 in Blog tagged all over the world, Dennis Adamson, flower seeds, garden seeds, germination, humidity, light, saving, Saving and storing seeds, seed vault, seeds, sprout, storing, temperature, vegetable seeds | Comments Off
There are national and world organizations that are maintaining seeds to secure biological diversity, protect against regional or global catastrophes..
The mission of the National Center for Genetic Resources Preservation (NCGRP) in Ft. Collins, Colorado is to acquire, evaluate, preserve, and provide a national collection of genetic resources to secure the biological diversity that underpins a sustainable U.S. agricultural economy through diligent stewardship, research, and communication.
Seed in the NPGS base collection comes from USDA-ARS-NPGS regional or crop specific field sites. This consolidated collection of all of NPGS holdings is stored at the NCGRP in secure freezers at -18°C. The viability of stored seeds is periodically monitored using standard germination assays. A fresh sample of seed is obtained if seed supply is too low or germination percent decreases below about 60%. Seed longevity depends on storage conditions and seed quality. They expect most undamaged seeds that are properly dried to survive about a hundred years in conventional storage (-18C) and about a thousand years under cryogenic (liquid nitrogen) conditions. Approximately 10 to 20% of angiosperm species produce seeds that do not survive complete desiccation. These so-called “recalcitrant” seeds (Examples are oak seeds, wild rice, and citrus) also do not survive conventional storage conditions used in gene banks. However, seeds from many of these species are amenable to cryopreservation.
The Svalbard Global Seed Vault represents a global effort to safeguard plant genetic resources for future generations. This vault is located about half way between the North Pole and the coast of Norway, near the town of Longyearbyen (population 1900), in the remote arctic island archipelago of Svalbard. Constructing the vault required drilling a 390 feet tunnel into permafrost on the side of a mountain on Spitsbergen Island. The vault consists of three large concrete chambers that collectively have the capacity to hold 3.5 million seed samples. Seed of crops important for food and agriculture will be safely stored for hundreds to thousands of years, protected from global or regional catastrophes. Participation in the Svalbard Global Seed Vault endeavor gave the United States a visible presence in the worldwide effort to safeguard the genetic diversity that underpins our food supply. The worldwide effort to preserve seeds is consistent with the philosophy that genetic resources are global assets. The historic opening of the Svalbard Global Seed Vault was celebrated 26 February 2008. Over 11,000 NPGS samples were included in the initial shipments of seeds from all over the world.
Of course we don’t have the possibility of storing seeds under these conditions. There are factors that we can control to prolong the viability of our seeds.
The following chart can help you determine how long you should try to store your seeds at home.
Virginia Cooperative Extension: Virginia Tech
|Viability of Vegetable Seeds
(Average number of years seeds may be saved)
A more generalized rule of thumb is: Store peppers, onions and corn for no more than two years. Beans, peas, squash and cabbage seeds remain viable for up to four years. Cucumbers, melons, and some green, leafy vegetable seeds still germinate and develop well after as long as six years of storage, according to Washington State University Extension.
Once you have decided to store seeds the NCGPR says the best way to store them is to dry seeds to about 20 % RH and store in vapor-proof containers in a cold place like a home freezer (the crisper tray of the refrigerator is the 2nd best and a cool dry place in a basement would the the 3rd best). Those seeds left from a packet purchased at a store should be kept in these conditions until you plant the seeds, those remaining should go right back into the storage.
When saving seeds from plants grown in the garden, the following should be followed: Always pick your most desirable, hardy and flavorful plants. Make sure they are not hybrids or that they haven’t cross pollinated with other varieties. You will have to decided if the time it takes to process the seeds is worth the effort especially with tomato and eggplant seeds.
Certain vegetables, such as beans, peas, peppers and tomatoes, make saving vegetable seeds simple: These have self-pollinating flowers, meaning they pollinate automatically before the flowers open. The most difficult seeds to save include beets and carrots because they need two growing seasons to make the seeds. Use 1/2 cup dried powdered milk or silica gel with the seeds to absorb moisture. You can purchase silica gel from craft stores or the Internet. Either of these should be left in the container that you will be used for storage for 11 days for small seeds or up to 15 days for larger seeds and then removed. The containers, which should have airtight seals, can then be put in storage.
Peppers and tomatoes should be harvested at the point when the fruit are perfectly ripe. This means you need to know what color the final product should be: waiting for something like the Green Grape tomato to turn scarlet will mean you never save a seed, as that fruit turns a sort of gooseberry green at maturity. Pepper varieties can be even more confusing, as some will go to their graves green, while for others red or brown indicates the final stage of ripeness.
When your selected pepper reaches maturity, pick it and slice in half. Scoop out the seeds and sprinkle them out on a plate, taking care to keep them from ending up in pairs or clumps. Don’t put them on paper or a paper plate as the seed stick fast to both. Set the plates someplace dry and somewhat cool–temperatures over about 90 degrees can kill off many seed varieties. Check them frequently, mixing them a bit to insure good air circulation. Stop the drying process when the seeds are no longer supple.
Tomato seeds are also easy to save once you do the following technique. Select, pick and slice, just as with the peppers. Then squeeze the contents of the tomato out into a bowl. Add enough water so that the volume of the bowl increases by half again. Set this mixture aside for three days, in a place to ferment. Stir once in the morning and again at night. How quickly the top mold caused by the fermenting will develop depends on the temperature, but in a house temperature of 70 degrees three days should do it. When the mold is clearly visible add about the same amount of water as you did three days ago. Stir well and then skim or pour off what stays on top. What floats to the bottom are the viable seeds. Rinse these seeds and then air dry them. Again, avoid extreme heat. If your seeds begin sprouting, it means the drying process has been too slow. Throw that batch away and try again. Use a screen instead of a plate, or a fan to improve air circulation. Don’t use use any added heat to try to speed things up. This will destroy the seeds.
With eggplants, cucumbers and summer squash, wait until they are well beyond the edible stage or the seeds will be immature. The eggplants should have lost their gleam and changed their hue, the cucumbers turned soft and off-color, and the summer squash toughened.
Eggplant seeds are tiny and difficult to separated from the flesh. If you have waited long enough, the pulp can sometimes be teased away from the seeds by hand. If that doesn’t work, pulverize it with a potato masher or with a small food processor, so that the maximum number of seeds are exposed. Then, put the entire mess in a pail of tepid water and leave it there until the seeds have settled to the bottom. Skim the top off, and pour the remains through cheesecloth or a fine strainer. Sometimes you have to do several rinses to achieve a state of marginal cleanliness, but don’t feel that the final product must look as sparkling as the original seeds in the packet.
Your over-ripe cucumbers should be split in half and hollowed out. The gelatinous covering on each seed will disappear if they are soaked in warm water overnight. You can rub off any additional coating that is left in the morning.
Summer squash are treated much the same as cucumbers. All you have to do is wash the seeds enough to clean off any meaty remains or slimy remains.
The following link has several seed harvesting techniques, to include some fruits:
Saving Your Own Vegetable Seeds (PDF file) www.avrdc.org/pdf/PROD6-saving_your_own_vegetable_seeds.pdf
Leave the plates in a dry place where the temperatures will stay even and below 90 degrees. A day or two should be enough, especially if you stir the seeds a couple of time a day and/or have a fan blowing on them. Stop when the seeds are dry, but not completely dried out. Be sure to write the names and date of the seeds on the packets that you are storing them in.
Place the seeds in something like a baggie and then they can be layered into a plastic storage container that is suitable for the freezer or refrigerator. Once you are ready to plant in the spring, bring them out of storage and let them get to room temperature before planting. Plant just as you would those seeds you purchase from a store.
If you are planting seeds that are more than a year old you can test for germination (the seeds that will sprout). Germination rates decrease when using older vegetable seeds. Test germination by pre-sprouting about 10 seeds on damp paper towels to see if at least 50 to 55 percent still germinate. If so, the seeds are still viable. If less than 85 percent sprout, sow the seeds thicker than instructed on the seed package for best results. The general health, or vigor, is also reduced as the seeds age according to the University of Arkansas Cooperative Extension Service. Germination rate doesn’t test for vigor and there is no test for this that home growers can use. The following is a step by step way to test for germination.
Saving your own vegetable seed is a pleasurable activity. It offers a sense of self-sufficiency and can save money. You can maintain a variety that is not available commercially or old-time varieties (heirloom), that often have disease and pest resistance or cold hardiness. Participation in a seed-saver’s exchange can also be a rewarding experience. Extra seeds may be traded for unusual types that are not available through other sources.
There are several excellent books out on the market. The one most often recommended is “Seed to Seed,” by Suzanne Ashworth
As I was researching this subject I came across several survival seed kits. I also found the following statement: Survival kits often cost over $100. The same variety of heirloom seeds can be bought for around $30 if bought individually from a gardening shop or a mail order seed catalog. Since different varieties of seeds remain viable and vigorous for different lengths of time all the seeds in the kits will need to be rotated at different time intervals. Also, since they often come in large cans it may not be as easy to store these in the freezer or the refrigerator to maximize the storage times. An old seed that has been stored too long will lose its vigor and will produce weaker plants. These then will provide less produce, be more susceptible to insects and disease, if they germinate at all.
According to the NCGRP, answers to questions site:
What is the oldest living seed? The most reliable studies show some seeds in soil at archeological sites surviving for 100 to 1,700 years. (e.g. Odum 1965. Germination of ancient seeds: floristical observations and experiments with archaeological dated soil samples. Dan. Bot, Arkiv 24(2):1-70; Shen-Miller, J., Mudgett, M.B., Schopf, J.W., Clarke, S., and Berger, R. 1995. Exceptional seed longevity and robust growth: Ancient sacred lotus from China. American Journal of Botany).
Unfortunately, I was not able to access the actual article. I don’t know if there were any seeds other than the ancient sacred lotus from China listed in the above sited article. It is referenced by several articles just as shown above. Having done research and having published in both national and international journals, when doing a literature search, there are often articles sited that when read in the complete form aren’t properly sited and mislead and bolster statements that are incorrect. I also know there is some controversy about seeds found at archeological sites. A USU horticultural specialist has stated that there has never been a documented source where seeds such as ancient Indian corn has been found, planted and the seed has germinated. The only one that he knows about is a coconut that was dated to about 1,700 years old that germinated.
2 Corinthians 9:10 Now he that ministereth seed to the sower both minister bread for your food, and multiply your seed sown, and increase the fruits of your righteousness;
Next week: When and how to start your seeds
For The Family
By Alan on Jan 28 in Blog tagged at home, Bush, containers, dennis, dwarf, espalier, fruit, garden plot, gardening, in small places, intercroping, mobile, ornamental, Relay, seeds, square foot, Succession, trees, vertical | 1 Comment
When I was growing up in small town Utah in the late 40′s through the 60s, most families had large lots. My parents and grandparents had large gardens that I was often tasked with weeding. It wasn’t a problem growing crops that needed a lot of space. Corn, summer and winter squash, pumpkins and melons need quite a bit of space when grown horizontally. Most, with the exception of corn, can be grown vertically.
Now a large lot is usually 1/2 acre which includes the space taken up by the home, driveways, walks, etc. Most of us live on lots that are 1/3 acre or smaller. In the case of an apartment there is usually no green space at all. We are seeing more neighborhood or community garden plots.
When we lived in Germany we noticed that they had taken this to an art form with gartenplatz (garden plots) where most are rented. They are even covered by their federal laws.
The [German] Federal Garden Plot Law. From Section 3:
(1) A garden plot should not be larger than 400 square meters [4300 square feet]. During use and cultivation of the garden plot, all requirements relating to protection of the environment, the local habitat, and the landscape shall be taken into account.
(2) In the garden plot, it is permitted to construct a simply-furnished small house with a maximum of 24 square meters [258 square feet] of floor space, including any covered outdoor seating area. Sections 29 to 36 of the Building Code apply accordingly. The house’s overall design, and especially its furnishings and equipment, may not be suited to long-term residence.
The result are thousands of garden colonies on the outskirts of big cities in Germany, Austria and Switzerland that look more like miniature housing developments than peaceful nature retreats. In the summertime, they are packed with families enjoying the sunshine, crammed onto their tiny plots grilling, eating and relaxing.
Since most of us want to stay at home to do our gardening, I will talk about several ways that we can do this. One of the first things that I would have you do is look for a location that has adequate sunlight and preferably near a source of water. Look on the Internet for ideas and then plan out your garden space. Here are some ideas to think about:
2. Vertical gardening: This can be incorporated into your horizontal gardens. It is a great way to maximize your space as well as minimize rot, mold and some insects with your
plants being off the ground. I use steel electrical conduit for the frame. There are right angle connectors that allow you to make a 3 sided rigid frame from items easily purchased at any local hardware store. Nylon netting is then stretched across the conduit and secured with plastic tie-downs. This can then be secured to your boxes, if you use raised beds, or by hammering rebar (also found at hardware stores: many of them sell precut short pieces) into the ground and then sliding the open end of the 2 vertical supports over these. There are many vegetable that can be grown vertically. Peas, pole beans, summer and winter squash, tomatoes, watermelons, cantaloupe, cucumbers, pumpkins, etc. I have used this technique for several years. Some of these will need additional support once the fruit develops, such as cantaloupe. Trellises are another vertical technique. They have been used for centuries for grapes. Winter squash and cucumbers, gourds, melons, berries and even pumpkins can also be adapted to trellises. I have used a trellis for some of my grapes vines for years and last year I made one for my winter squash. I am going to change it this year so that it is anchored on the far sides of my raised beds instead of the inside. This made it easier to get to the plants in the raised beds.
3. Place vegetable among your ornamental plants. I have done this with peppers. There are now ornamental peppers that are edible. Herbs also work well in this setting. I have chives in my flower beds.
4. Containers: Any container: from glass jars, fabric grow bags, upside down bags, old nursery black plastic plant containers to the fanciest of pots can be used for growing vegetables. Some have water reservoirs in the bottom to minimize the watering requirements. I have my dwarf orange and lemon trees in 2 of these. There are specific ones for strawberries. This technique can be used in the house, on the deck or on the side of the house. There are now specific tomato varieties for the upside down containers.
5. Intercropping: Planting crops that mature early with crops that mature later in the year.
6. Relay Planting: Planting some plants one week and then planting the same variety a week or two later in different spots so that the production time will be prolonged.
7. Succession Planting: Once a crop, such as radishes are finished producing, planting another crop that does well in the hotter months.
8. Plant dwarf or bush varieties of vegetables and fruit trees. I use this technique grow my fruit trees closer together.
9. Espalier (i-spal-yey or -yer): This is for growing vines or trees in a 2 dimensional plane. Grape vines have been trained this way for millennium. Many fruit trees can also be trained to grow in this way. Apple, apricot, nectarine, peach and plum are among the fruit trees that you can espalier. This was used by George Washington at Mount Vernon and in gardens in Colonial Williamsburg. I have done this with 2 plum trees and plan to do it with some apples varieties. I use the dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties, but it can be done with standard sizes.
10. Mobile Garden: When you think that you have seen it all, you haven’t !!!
“Though thy beginning was small, yet thy latter end [garden produce] should greatly increase.” Job 8:7
For The Family
firstname.lastname@example.org (Any Questions?)
A successful business man was growing old and knew it was time to choose a successor to take over the business.
Instead of choosing one of his Directors or his children, he decided to do something different. He called all the young executives in his company together.He said, “It is time for me to step down and choose the next CEO. I have decided to choose one of you. “The young executives were Shocked, but the boss continued. “I am going to give each one of you a SEED today – one very special SEED. I want you to plant the seed, water it, and come back here one year from today with what you have grown from the seed I have given you.
I will then judge the plants that you bring, and the one
I choose will be the next CEO.”
One man, named Jim, was there that day and he, like the others, received a seed. He went home and excitedly, told his wife the story. She helped him get a pot, soil and compost and he planted the seed. Everyday, he would water it and watch to see if it had grown. After about three weeks, some of the other executives began to talk about their seeds and the plants that were beginning to grow.
Jim kept checking his seed, but nothing ever grew.
Three weeks, four weeks, five weeks went by, still
By now, others were talking about their plants, but Jim didn’t have a plant and he felt like a failure.
Six months went by — still nothing in Jim’s pot. He just knew he had killed his seed. Everyone else had trees and tall plants, but he had nothing. Jim didn’t say anything to his colleagues, however, he just kept watering and fertilizing the soil – He so wanted the seed to grow.
A year finally went by and all the young executives of the company brought their plants to the CEO for inspection.
Jim told his wife that he wasn’t going to take an empty pot. But she asked him to be honest about what happened. Jim felt sick to his stomach, it was going to be the most embarrassing moment of his life, but he knew his wife was right. He took his empty pot to the board room. When Jim arrived, he was amazed at the variety of plants grown by the other executives. They were beautiful — in all shapes and sizes. Jim put his empty pot on the floor and many of his colleagues laughed, a few felt sorry for him!
When the CEO arrived, he surveyed the room and greeted his young executives.
Jim just tried to hide in the back. “My, what great plants, trees and flowers you have grown,” said the CEO. “Today one of you will be appointed the next CEO!”
All of a sudden, the CEO spotted Jim at the back of the room with his empty pot. He ordered the Financial Director to bring him to the front. Jim was terrified. He thought, “The CEO knows I’m a failure! Maybe he will have me fired!”
When Jim got to the front, the CEO asked him what had happened to his seed – Jim told him the story.
The CEO asked everyone to sit down except Jim. He looked at Jim, and then announced to the young executives, “Behold your next Chief Executive Officer!
His name is Jim!” Jim couldn’t believe it. Jim couldn’t even grow his seed.
“How could he be the new CEO?” the others said.
Then the CEO said, “One year ago today, I gave everyone in this room a seed. I told you to take the seed, plant it, water it, and bring it back to me today. But I gave you all boiled seeds; they were dead – it was not possible for them to grow.
All of you, except Jim, have brought me trees and plants and flowers. When you found that the seed would not grow, you substituted another seed for the one I gave you. Jim was the only one with the courage and honesty to bring me a pot with my seed in it. Therefore, he is the one who will be the new Chief Executive Officer!”
* If you plant honesty, you will reap trust.
* If you plant goodness, you will reap friends.
* If you plant humility, you will reap greatness.
* If you plant perseverance, you will reap contentment.
* If you plant consideration, you will reap perspective.
* If you plant hard work, you will reap success.
* If you plant forgiveness, you will reap reconciliation.
So, be careful what you plant now; it will determine what you will reap later.
For The Family