By Alan on Apr 15 in Blog tagged containers, Dennis Adamson, diseases, everbearing, fertilization, junebearing strawberry, master gardner, minimal space, raised beds, strawberries, The Family, theFamily, Week 15 | Comments Off

Strawberries – The Family Garden

When I was growing up we had several rows of strawberries.  I was often required to weed and then when ripe, pick them.  Since they were growing right on the ground I remember how sore I would be bending over to complete the tasks.  When I started gardening as an adult strawberries weren’t high on my list of things to plant.  I mainly did it because my wife enjoyed eating fresh strawberries even if it was only a handful.  I bought strawberry pots and tried raised beds, but I was never very successful.  When I got into Master Gardening I decided that it was time to learn how to properly grow them.  Because of limited space I have gone to a raised bed.  This year I broke out the old strawberry pot and decided it was time to try this technique again.

In a Utah State University Extension Service article the authors state that “strawberries are one of the most popular small fruits in the home garden…relatively easy to grow, require minimal space, and produce the first fruit of the new season. A properly maintained 4 feet by 8 feet bed of strawberries will produce 10 to 15 pounds of berries per year for three to five seasons.”
(Strawberry plants only produce for about 3-5 years, then the quality of the fruit becomes less flavorful and is much smaller. The runners that start new plants then become the mother plants. It’s a way to reproduce strawberry plants, but very time consuming and doesn’t lend itself to small raised beds and containers.)

First we need to talk about the 3 main types of strawberries.  The following is found at an excellent site that I would recommend researching before starting to grow strawberries:

Strawberry Plants .org The ONE stop for EVERYTHING related to strawberry plants and growing strawberries…

http://strawberryplants.org/2010/05/growing-strawberries/

“Junebearing strawberry varieties: Any list of strawberry varieties will probably contain more June-bearing strawberry varieties than any other. June bearers are tremendously popular and common. They typically produce the largest strawberries, and do so over a period of two to three weeks, on average. Most June bearing strawberry varieties produce a harvest around the month of June, hence the name. However, strawberry varieties are further classified into Early Season, Midseason, and Late Season. By selecting strawberry plant varieties that produce during different parts of the season, you can prolong your harvest and enjoy fresh strawberries for an extended period of time.  June bearing strawberry varieties are often planted using the matted row system.”  (see the StrawberryPlants.org site for details of this planting system.)

“Everbearing strawberry varieties: Everbearing strawberry varieties aren’t really “everbearing.” They generally produce two harvests per year: one in the spring and another in the late summer or fall. Under ideal conditions, it is possible for some everbearing strawberry varieties to produce three berry harvests.  In general, everbearing strawberry varieties put out less runners (or no runners at all) than the June bearing varieties, as most of the plants productive energy is directed toward producing multiple strawberry harvests. Everbearing strawberry varieties are often planted using the hill system or in locations where space is limited.”  (This system is also described in the above site.)

From the USU Extension Service article: “Strawberry plants propagate themselves by sending out runners (stolons) that form daughter plants. The two management systems best suited to home garden production are the Matted Row and the Hill systems, and differ in how they handle runners. The Matted Row system is often easier to manage effectively, but the hill system also has advantages in weed and disease management and improved fruit size and quality.”

 

Returning to the StrawberryPlants.org: “Day-neutral strawberry varieties: Day neutral strawberry varieties are unique. Unlike June bearing varieties, day neutral strawberries will produce a good yield in the first year they are planted. They flower and set strawberries whenever the temperature is between 35 and 85 degrees. They will still be producing fruit in October during milder years. The drawback to day neutral strawberry plants is that they produce smaller strawberries than do the June bearing and everbearing strawberry varieties. Their fruit is usually small to medium in size, rarely exceeding one inch. Day neutral strawberry varieties are can be planted using the hill system or in raised beds or containers.”

For small raised beds and containers I would recommend using day-neutral strawberry varieties because of higher yield and longer production. They also don’t tend to send out runners that form daughter plants.

Planting strawberries

Crowns must be placed right at the top of the soil line or they will not survive (rotting if placed too deep and drying out if placed too high). Blooms exposed to late freezes (without protection) result in a limited harvest.

See: Strawberry Plants.org

Diseases

Plant viruses are a common problem in strawberries as are crown, root and fruit rot caused by fungal infections.  Powdery mildew and mites can also be a problem.  Avoid keeping strawberry beds in the same place for more than five years to prevent buildup of soil-borne pathogens. Also, avoid planting strawberries in areas where peppers, tomatoes, potatoes, eggplant, or okra, have been grown recently, as these harbor the Verticillium wilt pathogen according to the USU Extension Service article.  Once infected you will need to replace the plants.  Some varieties have more resistance than others.

Raised beds

Strawberries do best in sandy or sandy/loam soils.  If you have clay soil,  raised beds are a must.  The site must get 8 hours of full sun for best production.  A balanced fertilizer should be worked into the soil and again in late summer.  Some even recommend applying a low rate of nitrogen fertilizer every 3 weeks when the plant is actively growing.  Since they have shallow roots they need to be watered frequently, especially during the fruiting period, if the weather is hot and dry.  You can put your finger into the soil down to the 1st knuckle and if dry water the plants.  You can also use a water meter to determine the need for additional watering.  During the winter water infrequently.  Strawberries don’t compete well with weeds so keep them under control.  Plastic or organic mulches will aid in controlling the weeds in raised beds.  During the winter strawberries should be provided protection against severe frosts.  Organic mulches or heavier garden fabrics can be placed over the plants for winter protection.  A low tunnel can be helpful in the early spring to protect the first blossoms.  These blossoms are the ones that tend to produce the largest strawberries.

Containers

Strawberries do very well in pots.  This is a bonus for those with little growing space.  Additionally, pots can be moved to maximize the growing conditions or to winter over the plants.  Optimum growing temperatures for strawberries are between 70 and 85F. If it gets hotter the container can be moved to obtain some afternoon shade. Keeping the roots cool in the summer with light colored pots will also help. The best containers for growing strawberries are strawberry pots.  These have multiple small pockets around the sides.  The small pockets will hold individual plants and the top opening can usually accommodate 6 plants.   If the strawberry pot is terracotta, the pot should be soaked before planting so the dry terracotta won’t wick the moisture out of the soil.  There are plastic strawberry pots that mimic terracotta like the one I have or ceramic ones.  They come in various sizes and prices.  Containers generally need to be watered more often than raised beds.

Step-by-step planting of a strawberry pot

1. Thoroughly clean the pot with a dilute bleach solution, especially on the inside to prevent any diseases from old plants and soil from getting into the new soil and plants.

2. If the drainage hole is in the bottom, protect it with a rock or piece of broken pottery so the soil won’t come out the drainage hole.

3. Prepare a 1 1/2” PVC pipe watering stem.

a.  Cut a length of pipe that is 2” or more above the surface.

b.  Mark a line parallel to the top of the container and then one 3” below this to start your holes    so your holes will be below the soil level.

1) drill holes that are 1 1/2” apart with a 1/8-1/4” bit (I used a 3/16”)

2) drill straight through both sides, split the difference between the first 2 holes and drill through again, it works out to 1 1/2” between them.

3) drop down 1 1/2” and offset and drill again until you reach the bottom of the tube.

c.  Plug the bottom of the pipe to allow the water to come up the tube and water the whole container and not just run out the bottom. (I used a plastic grocery bag wadded up in the bottom of the pipe.)

d. Cover the top of the pipe with something while placing the soil so the soil won’t get in the tube.

1. Use a good potting soil or the compost/vermiculite/peat moss type mix.  Moisten the soil before placing it in the container.

a.  Add fertilizer  (I use a time release form so I don’t have to repeat the fertilization process as often)  Check the labels, I purchased one that was $3 more, but lasts for 4 months vs another one of the same size that lasts only 2 months.

b.  Fill with soil to the first row of pockets and then plant the pockets.

c.  Continue to fill the container in layers until your last layer is 2” from the top of the container.

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   Water

a.  Fill the tube at least twice.

b.  Gently water the soil around the plants at the top and in each pocket.

One last concern, birds. Birds, especially robins, love strawberries as much as we do.  If this becomes a problem then you might need to cover the plants with netting.  This does make picking more difficult, but may be the only way you will have strawberries for yourself.  Many other techniques such as scarecrows, rubber snakes, fake owls, etc. as less effective.  Slugs and snails can also be a problem.

Harvest berries as soon as they are ripe.

Remove any rotted fruit or yellowing leaves as you see them.

Some article,s that you might research, will suggest using blood and/or bone meal for fertilization.  These can be purchased at most nurseries or stores with garden centers.

Overwintering any sheltered location such as a garage or workroom.

Strawberries are self fertile, but they need the actions of insects, or the wind to transfer the pollen to the correct flower parts in order to produce fruit. You can grow them indoors, but you will need to play bee. Rub a Q-tip or a fine small paint brush around on all of the flowers in order to pollenate them if you want berries.  Wait for the flower to wilt. If it wilts within 48 hours, then the plant was successfully pollinated. If not, repeat the process.  You can try natural methods such as setting the plant outside when it is windy or shaking the plant gently.  You could borrow bees from a bee farmer, but it might be difficult getting them to leave your house :- )

Deuteronomy 30:9 “And the Lord thy God will make thee plenteous in…the fruit of thy land, for good: for the Lord will again rejoice over thee for good.”

Next week: Sprouting

By Dennis Adamson
Master Gardner
adamsond@juno.com  =  ask Dennis any gardening questions?
For The Family

By Alan on Feb 12 in Blog tagged 55 gallon drums, bathing, bioling, chlorinating, chlorine bleach per gallon, cleaned, containers, cover on pool, distillation, emergency, filtering, from plumbing system, hot-water tank, hygiene, ice cubes, incoming water valve, label containers, non-corrosive, rotated, top priority, two quarts each day, wash dishes, water in freezer, water purifier, water storage | Comments Off

Emergency Water Storage

Water Storage is important. Having an ample supply of safe,  clean, purified water is a top priority in an emergency.

A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day. Hot environments can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers and ill people will need even more. You will also need water for food preparation and hygiene. Store a total of at least one gallon per person, per day. You should store at least a two-week supply of water for each member of your family.

If supplies run low, never ration water. Drink the amount you need today, and try to find more for tomorrow. You can minimize the amount of water your body needs by reducing activity and staying cool.

To ensure a safe supply of water in an emergency we recommend a good water purifier!

Amount of Emergency Water to Store

Whereas a quart of water or other fluid daily will sustain life, according to the Department of Defense and the Office of Civil Defense, it is recommended that a gallon of water per day per person be stored for food preparation and drinking. A gallon provides added comfort and accommodates increased fluid needs at higher altitudes or warm climates. An additional one-half to 1 gallon per day is recommended for bathing and hygiene, and to wash dishes.

How much water should I store? The rule of thumb is to store at least one gallon per person per day for at least 3 days (for earthquake preparedness). That’s 2 quarts for drinking and 2 quarts for food preparation and sanitation. A family of four should store a minimum of 12 gallons of water. Personally, I recommend at least a 10 day supply of water and a 30 day supply if it all possible.

Use the following guidelines when storing water:

1. Store drinking water in carefully cleaned, non-corrosive, tightly covered containers.

2. Store containers in a cool dark place. DO NOT store in direct sunlight. Polyethylene plastics (prepackaged milk and water bottles) are somewhat permeable to hydrocarbon vapors. Keep away from stored gasoline, kerosene, pesticides, or similar substances.

3. Stored tap water should be rotated every 6 months. Prepackaged bottled water should be rotated once a year. Check the pull date on the container. Be sure it didn’t sit on the store’s shelf for a year before you purchased it. Self Serve Bottled Water should be rotated once a year, as long as the water treatment process includes ozonation.

4. Rotate your stored water with the water you use on a regular basis. This practice helps insure you don’t have water stored longer than one year.

Containers That Can be Used for Water Storage

Food-grade plastic or glass containers are suitable for storing water. One-, three- and five-gallon water containers can be purchased from most outdoor or hardware stores. Any plastic or glass container that previously held food or beverages such as 2-liter soda bottles or water, juice, punch or milk jugs, also may be used. Stainless steel can be used to store water which has not been or will not be treated with chlorine; chlorine is corrosive to most metals.

 

 

 

 

 

55 gal drums, designed specifiacally for water storage can be difficult to transport, if the need arises, but are of a tremendous value in an emergency . When looking for additional food grade containers, the bottom will be stamped with HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene) and coded with the recycle symbol and a “2″ inside. HDPE containers are FDA-approved for food. Containers without these designations aren’t OK because of possible chemical interactions between the water and the plastic.

Clean used containers and lids with hot soapy water. Once the containers have been thoroughly cleaned, rinse them with water and sanitize the containers and lids by rinsing them with a solution of 1 tablespoon chlorine bleach per gallon of water. Leave the containers wet for two minutes, then rinse them again with water. Remember to remove the paper or plastic lid liners before washing the lids. It is very difficult to effectively remove all residue from many containers, so carefully clean hard-to-reach places like the handles of milk jugs. To sanitize stainless steel containers, place the container in boiling water for 10 minutes. Never use containers that previously held chemicals.

Do I Need to Treat Water?

Once you properly clean containers, fill them with potable, or safe, drinking water. All public water supplies are already treated and should be free of harmful bacteria. However, as an additional precaution, it is recommended that you add 5-7 drops, about 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach per gallon of water stored. This precaution protects you against any lingering organisms in storage containers that may have been inadvertently missed during the cleaning process.

Where to Store Water

Clearly label all water containers “drinking water” with the current date. Store the water in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Do not store it near gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances.  (Storing on cement floor will leave a taste. Set on wood.)

When potable water is properly stored, it should have an indefinite shelf life; however, it’s a good idea to use and replace the stored water every 6 – 12 months. Rotating water this way provides you with an opportunity to experiment and check the amount of stored water against what you require. It also serves as an additional precaution against bacteria or viruses growing in containers which may not have been thoroughly or properly cleaned and sanitized.

If you have freezer space, storing some water in the freezer is a good idea. If you lose electricity, the frozen water will help keep foods in your freezer frozen until the power is restored. Make sure you leave 2 to 3 inches of space in containers because water expands as it freezes.

Emergency Sources of Water

In an emergency, if you have not previously stored water and commercial or public sources of water are not available, drain water from your plumbing system. Unless you are advised that the public water supply has been contaminated and is not safe, open the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater and salvage the water stored in the heater. A typical water heater holds 30-60 gallons of water. Discard the first few gallons if they contain rust or sediment. Let the water heater cool before draining it from the heater so it does not scald you. Turn off the electricity or gas to the water heater to prevent the heater from operating without water. Once water has been drained into clean, sanitized containers, add 5-7 drops of chlorine bleach* per gallon of water, and stir or shake the solution to mix it. Let it set 30 minutes before use.

Emergency Outdoor Water Sources

If you need to find water outside your home, you can use these sources. Be sure to treat the water first. Additional sources include:

Rainwater Streams, rivers and other moving bodies of water Ponds and lakes Natural springs.  Avoid water with floating material, an odor or dark color. Use saltwater only if you distill it first. You should not drink flood water.

Hidden Water Sources in Your Home

If a disaster catches you without a stored supply of clean water, you can use the water in your hot-water tank, pipes and ice cubes. As a last resort, you can use water in the reservoir tank of your toilet (not the bowl).

Do you know the location of your incoming water valve? You’ll need to shut it off to stop contaminated water from entering your home if you hear reports of broken water or sewage lines. (Need a Bung wrench).

To use the water in your pipes, let air into the plumbing by turning on the faucet in your house at the highest level. A small amount of water will trickle out. Then obtain water from the lowest faucet in the house.

To use the water in your hot-water tank, be sure the electricity or gas is off, and open the drain at the bottom of the tank. Start the water flowing by turning off the water intake valve and turning on a hot-water faucet. Do not turn on the gas or electricity when the tank is empty.

Using Swimming Pool Water

You should always view your pool as “backup” water; keep the water treated; you never know when it will be needed! The maintenance of the free chlorine residual will prevent establishment of any microorganisms. The maintenance level should be kept about 3-5ppm free chlorine. (See Water Purification for detailed information on purifying pool water.) If other stored water stocks are not available, remove the necessary pool water and boil it or just treat with chlorine to the normal 5ppm. It is best to err on the side of caution.

Covering the pool at all times when not in use is a very good idea. Try to keep the cover clean and wash the area you put it on when removing it from the pool.

When and How to Treat Water for Storage

In an emergency, if you do not have water that you know is safe, it’s possible to purify water for drinking. Start with the cleanest water you can find and treat with one of the following methods:

• Boiling and chlorinating: Water can be purified by boiling. Boiling times may vary from state to state, depending on altitude. In Colorado, the water is safe to use once after it has been boiled for three to five minutes and has cooled. If you plan to store boiled water, pour it into clean, sanitized containers and let it cool to room temperature. Then add 5-7 drops, or 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach* per gallon of water (1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Cap the containers and store them in a cool, dry place.

• Filtering and chlorinating: You can filter water if you have a commercial or backpack filter that filters to 1 micron. These are available in sporting good stores and are recommended for use when back-packing. They are not recommended to clean large volumes of water. Filtering eliminates parasites such as giardia and cryptosporidium, but it may not eliminate all bacteria and viruses. Therefore, it’s recommended that 5-7 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of chlorine bleach* be added per gallon of filtered water (1/2 teaspoon for 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Wait 30 minutes before using the water, or cap the containers and store them in a cool, dry place.

*Use liquid household bleach that contains 5.25 percent hypochlorite. Do not use bleaches with fresheners or scents as they may not be safe to consume. The above treatment methods use a two-step approach so less bleach is needed, yet giardia and cryptosporidium are destroyed through boiling or eliminated by filtering. Chlorine may not be effective against these parasites. Since adding too much chlorine to water can be harmful, it’s important to be as accurate as possible when measuring.

• Distillation (not recommended for good health) involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor that condenses back to water. The condensed vapor will not include salt and other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled.

Most water filtration devices are designed for use on microbiologically safe water. Don’t assume they are safe to use on contaminated water. Check with the manufacturer to be sure.

Use the following guidelines to determine if filtration equipment is adequate to use with microbiologically contaminated water:

Filtration Equipment	Safe on Microbiologically Contaminated Water?
Carbon Filter	No
Reverse Osmosis	No
Deionization Filter	No
Pitcher Filter	No
Faucet Mount Filter	No
Steam Distiller	Yes – but requires electricity
UV Sterilizer	Yes – but requires electricity
Ceramic Filter	Some – but only if rated for bacteriological protection

Equipment that is safe to use on contaminated water is often slow, costly, inconvenient and/or high maintenance. It makes the most sense to use the filtration equipment that best meets your normal daily needs and shift to water storage or alternative methods of water treatment in times of emergencies.

“Whosoever drinketh of the water that I shall give him shall never thirst.” John 4: 6-15

If ye are prepared, ye shall not fear!
For The Family

By Alan on Mar 23 in Blog tagged be prepared, containers, family homw storage, Financial reserve, if ye are prepaerd ye shall not fear, Long term supply, pretreatment, provident living, storage, supply of food, water | Comments Off

Family Home Storage

“Our Heavenly Father created this beautiful earth, with all its abundance, for our benefit and use. His purpose is to provide for our needs as we walk in faith and obedience. He has lovingly commanded us to “prepare every needful thing” (see D&C 109:8) so that, should adversity come, we can care for ourselves and our neighbors and support bishops as they care for others.

“We encourage members and families world-wide to prepare for adversity in life by having a basic supply of food and water and some money in savings.”We ask that you be wise as you store food and water and build your savings. Do not go to extremes; it is not prudent, for example, to go into debt to establish your food storage all at once. With careful planning, you can, over time, establish a home storage supply and a financial reserve.”

—LDS The First Presidency, All Is Safely Gathered In: Family Home Storage,

Three-Month Supply

Build a small supply of food that is part of your normal, daily diet.  One way to do this is to purchase a few ectra items each week to build a one-week supply of food.  Then you can gradually increase your supply until it is sufficient for three months.  These items should be rotated regularly to avoid spoilage.

Water Storage Guidelines

Commercially bottled water in PETE (or PET) plastic containers may be purchased. Follow the container’s “best if used by” dates as a rotation guideline. Avoid plastic containers that are not PETE plastic.

If you choose to package water yourself, consider the following guidelines:

Containers

• Use only food-grade containers. Smaller containers made of PETE plastic or heavier plastic buckets or drums work well.

• Clean, sanitize, and thoroughly rinse all containers prior to use. A sanitizing solution can be prepared by adding 1 teaspoon (5 ml) of liquid household chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypochlorite) to one quart (1 liter) of water. Only household bleach without thickeners, scents, or additives should be used.

• Do not use plastic milk jugs, because they do not seal well and tend to become brittle over time.

• Do not use containers previously used to store non-food products.

Water Pretreatment

• Water from a chlorinated municipal water supply does not need further treatment when stored in clean, food-grade containers.

• Non-chlorinated water should be treated with bleach. Add 1/8 of a teaspoon (8 drops) of liquid household chlorine bleach (5 to 6% sodium hypochlorite) for every gallon (4 liters) of water. Only household bleach without thickeners, scents, or additives should be used.

Storage

• Containers should be emptied and refilled regularly.

• Store water only where potential leakage would not damage your home or apartment.

• Protect stored water from light and heat. Some containers may also require protection from freezing.

• The taste of stored water can be improved by pouring it back and forth between two containers before use.

Additional Information

Note: The following links are provided as additional resource material:

www.fema.gov/plan/prepare/water

www.epa.gov/safewater/faq/emerg.html

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Financial Reserve

Establish a financial reserve by saving a little money each week and gradually increasing it to a reasonable amount.

Learn more…

Longer-Term Supply

For longer-term needs, and where permitted, gradually build a supply of food that will last a long time and that you can use to stay alive, such as wheat, white rice, and beans.

These items can last 30 years or more when properly packaged and stored in a cool, dry place. A portion of these items may be rotated in your three-month supply.

Product Recommendations
Packaging Recommendations
Storage Conditions

“I tell you these things because of your prayers; wherefore, treasure up wisdom in your bosoms, lest the wickedness of men reveal these things unto you by their wickedness, in a manner which shall speak in your ears with a voice louder than that which shall shake the earth; but if ye areprepared ye shall not fear.” D&C 38: 30

By Alan on Jan 28 in Blog tagged at home, Bush, containers, dennis, dwarf, espalier, fruit, garden plot, gardening, in small places, intercroping, mobile, ornamental, Relay, seeds, square foot, Succession, trees, vertical | 1 Comment

When I was growing up in small town Utah in the late 40′s through the 60s, most families had large lots. My parents and grandparents had large gardens that I was often tasked with weeding.  It wasn’t a problem growing crops that needed a lot of space.  Corn, summer and winter squash, pumpkins and melons need quite a bit of space when grown horizontally.  Most, with the exception of corn, can be grown vertically.

Now a large lot is usually 1/2 acre which includes the space taken up by the home, driveways, walks, etc.  Most of us live on lots that are 1/3 acre or smaller.  In the case of an apartment there is usually no green space at all.  We are seeing more neighborhood or community garden plots.

When we lived in Germany we noticed that they had taken this to an art form with gartenplatz (garden plots) where most are rented.  They are even covered by their federal laws.

The [German] Federal Garden Plot Law. From Section 3:

(1) A garden plot should not be larger than 400 square meters [4300 square feet]. During use and cultivation of the garden plot, all requirements relating to protection of the environment, the local habitat, and the landscape shall be taken into account.

(2) In the garden plot, it is permitted to construct a simply-furnished small house with a maximum of 24 square meters [258 square feet] of floor space, including any covered outdoor seating area. Sections 29 to 36 of the Building Code apply accordingly. The house’s overall design, and especially its furnishings and equipment, may not be suited to long-term residence.

The result are thousands of garden colonies on the outskirts of big cities in Germany, Austria and Switzerland that look more like miniature housing developments than peaceful nature retreats. In the summertime, they are packed with families enjoying the sunshine, crammed onto their tiny plots grilling, eating and relaxing.

Since most of us want to stay at home to do our gardening, I will talk about several ways that we can do this.  One of the first things that I would have you do is look for a location that has adequate sunlight and preferably near a source of water.  Look on the Internet for ideas and then plan out your garden space.  Here are some ideas to think about:

 

1. Square foot gardening: I have used this technique for years.  It is surprising how much you can grow in one square foot areas.  This trademarked technique was developed by Mel Bartholomew in 1975 after he retired from his consulting engineering business in New Jersey. Classes are often given in several parts of the country.  Your extension service may do classes on home vegetable production in small spaces.  Thanksgiving Point at Lehi, UT will be offering a 3 week Home Vegetable Production class in March that will include gardening in small space given by Larry Sagers the USU Horticultural Specialist at Thanksgiving Point.

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2. Vertical gardening: This can be incorporated into your horizontal gardens.  It is a great way to maximize your space as well as minimize rot, mold and some insects with your

plants being off the ground.  I use steel electrical conduit for the frame.  There are right angle connectors that allow you to make a 3 sided rigid frame from items easily purchased at any local hardware store.  Nylon netting is then stretched across the conduit and secured with plastic tie-downs. This can then be secured to your boxes, if you use raised beds, or by hammering rebar (also found at hardware stores: many of them sell precut short pieces) into the ground and then sliding the open end of the 2 vertical supports over these.  There are many vegetable that can be grown vertically. Peas, pole beans, summer and winter squash, tomatoes, watermelons, cantaloupe, cucumbers, pumpkins, etc.  I have used this technique for several years.  Some of these will need additional support once the fruit develops, such as cantaloupe.  Trellises are another vertical technique. They have been used for centuries for grapes.  Winter squash and cucumbers, gourds, melons, berries and even pumpkins can also be adapted to trellises.  I have used a trellis for some of my grapes vines for years and last year I made one for my winter squash.  I am going to change it this year so that it is anchored on the far sides of my raised beds instead of the inside.  This made it easier to get to the plants in the raised beds.

 

3. Place vegetable among your ornamental plants. I have done this with peppers.  There are now ornamental peppers that are edible.  Herbs also work well in this setting.  I have chives in my flower beds.

4. Containers: Any container: from glass jars, fabric grow bags, upside down bags, old nursery black plastic plant containers to the fanciest of pots can be used for growing vegetables.  Some have water reservoirs in the bottom to minimize the watering requirements.  I have my dwarf orange and lemon trees in 2 of these.  There are specific ones for strawberries.  This technique can be used in the house, on the deck or on the side of the house.  There are now specific tomato varieties for the upside down containers.

5. Intercropping: Planting crops that mature early with crops that mature later in the year.

6. Relay Planting: Planting some plants one week and then planting the same variety a week or  two later in different spots so that the production time will be prolonged.

7. Succession Planting: Once a crop, such as radishes are finished producing, planting another crop that does well in the hotter months.

8. Plant dwarf or bush varieties of vegetables and fruit trees. I use this technique grow my fruit trees closer together.

9. Espalier (i-spal-yey or -yer): This is for growing vines or trees in a 2 dimensional plane.  Grape vines have been trained this way for millennium.  Many fruit trees can also be trained to grow in this way.  Apple, apricot, nectarine, peach and plum are among the fruit trees that you can espalier.  This was used by George Washington at Mount Vernon and in gardens in Colonial Williamsburg.  I have done this with 2 plum trees and plan to do it with some apples varieties.  I use the dwarf or semi-dwarf varieties, but it can be done with standard sizes.

 

10. Mobile Garden: When you think that you have seen it all, you haven’t !!!

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“Though thy beginning was small, yet thy latter end [garden produce] should greatly increase.” Job 8:7

“…but behold I say unto you, that by small and simple things are great things brought to pass… “ Alma 37:6

Next week article: “Seeds”

Dennis Adamson
For The Family
adamsondm@thefamily.com  (Any Questions?)